ZION NATIONAL PARK • UTAH

Open All Year

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR Oscar L. Chapman, Secretary

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Arthur E. Demaray, Director

Contents

Historic Events

Zion National Park, located in the heart of the spectacular desert and canyon country of southern Utah, has as one of its chief features the great multicolored gorge, Zion Canyon. The sandstone cliffs, rising sheer to form the canyon walls and encircle the valley, are awesome; but it is the vivid coloring which most amazes. The deep red of the Vermilion Cliffs is the prevailing tint. Two-thirds of the way up these marvelous walls and temples are painted varying shades of red; then, above the reds they rise in startling white, sometimes surmounted by a cap of brilliant red.

Formation of Zion Canyon[1]

Zion Canyon, the best known example of a deep, narrow, vertically walled chasm readily accessible for observation, was made by the north fork of the Virgin River, the stream which now flows through it. Before this stream established its course there was no canyon. During the long period since its course was established the river has slowly deepened its channel and extended it headward until its original shallow valley has become a long narrow trench between towering walls. Though now deeply entrenched in the rocks of the Kolob Plateau, the river maintains substantially its original pattern. It flows in the same direction, and the curves and straight stretches of its present walls duplicate the meanders of the stream when it flowed some 5,000 feet above its present level.

For many thousands of years the Virgin River and its tributaries have been busy with two tasks, namely, deepening their channels and transporting material weathered from the canyon walls. At present the Virgin carries away from the park each year about 3,000,000 tons of ground-up rock at an average rate of 180 carloads a day. For such effective work the many-branched river seems incompetent. But though relatively small in volume, this stream system falls from 50 to 70 feet per mile (nine times the fall of the Colorado in Grand Canyon) and is at work on rock, chiefly sandstone, that disintegrates with exceptional ease. Many tributaries are on bare rock, little retarded 4 by vegetation, and are fed by short but violent showers. Consequently, they are brought to flood stage not only seasonally but with each period of heavy rainfall. Because they flow only in response to showers, the smaller tributaries are unable to cut channels as deep as the perennial master stream. From their mouths high on the canyon walls, they descend as waterfalls.

Though they are primarily responsible for the depth and position of the canyons, the Virgin River itself and the other streams heading on the adjoining plateaus are only incidentally concerned with the detailed carving that makes Zion Canyon unique. The walls are retreating in consequence of ground water which emerges as springs and seeps, rain which falls directly into the canyon, water that spills over the rim, frost and tree roots which pry off slabs, and chemical agencies which weaken the rock by the removal of the cement about individual grains. Continuous sapping at or near the contact of the porous Navajo sandstone and the more impervious underlying beds has developed alcoves in the canyon walls at Wiley Retreat, the Stadium, Weeping Rock, Emerald Pool, Birch Creek, Oak Creek, and elsewhere.

Generalized section of sediments in Zion and Bryce Canyons.

In the development of the amazing variety of architectural features on the canyon walls, the composition and structure of the Navajo formation have served as controlling guides. In addition to the bedding planes—horizontal, oblique, and curved surfaces—the Navajo has developed parting planes (joints) that extend downward for short distances or pass through the formation from top to bottom. These bedding planes and joints determine the shape and size of the blocks that spall off from the towering cliff walls. Unlike that of humid regions, this type of erosion progresses from below upward; it causes the canyon to widen and still retain its vertical walls.

(Union Pacific Railroad photo) The Sentinel viewed from the West Portal of the Mount Carmel Tunnel.

Wildlife

With the lower reaches of the park extending into the desert regions to the southward, and the northernmost portions reaching into the spruce-covered highlands, Zion offers the visitor a wide variety of wildlife forms. Among the larger mammals, the mule deer are especially numerous and can frequently be observed along the floor of Zion Canyon in late evening. A few bighorn are present but spend their time in the relatively inaccessible canyons, hence are seldom seen. Other mammals, such as the mountain lion, bobcat, coyote, and fox, are resident within the park, but are rarely encountered because of their timidity. Ground squirrels and chipmunks are numerous and frequently tame. It is wisest to enjoy them without actual contact, however, for some rodents have been known to carry dangerous diseases.

Several species of birds are resident on the floor of the canyon, the best known being the spurred towhee, robin, canyon wren, and yellow warbler. Among the ponderosa pines back of the canyon rims are such colorful songsters as the western tanager, Audubon’s warbler, and western warbling vireo.

Of absorbing interest are the many varieties of harmless reptiles in the canyon. Lizards, such as the blue-bellied swift and brown-shouldered uta, are commonly observed around the brush-covered slopes, while the Boyle’s kingsnake and wandering gartersnake are to be found in the dense vegetation near the river.

Park Season

Each season of the year is distinctive in Zion. In winter, the colored cliffs stand out in startling contrast to the snow-covered levels and slopes; in spring, melting snows cascade over the cliff faces in foaming white waterfalls. Summer brings with it the greens of the valley as a foreground for the colorful formations; and in autumn when the skies are deepest blue, the trees of the valley floor and slopes take on variegated hues.

Although Zion Lodge is open only during the summer season, the Camp Center, with cafeteria, store, and cabins, and the public campground at the south entrance are operated throughout the year.

How to Reach Zion

Zion National Park is reached from Cedar City, Utah, on the Union Pacific Railroad. From this point motorbus service is provided by the Utah Parks Co. to Zion National Park, as well as to Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon (North Rim) National Parks and Cedar Breaks National Monument. Passengers traveling on main bus lines may transfer to Utah Parks Co. buses at Cedar City. On advance notice, connections can be made with the Santa Fe Trails System at Mount Carmel Junction.

Roads connecting Bryce Canyon, Zion, Grand Canyon, and Cedar Breaks

Motorists on the Arrowhead Trail, United States Highway No. 91, from the north may turn off at Anderson Junction, 33 miles south of Cedar City, and those from the south may turn off at Harrisburg Bench Junction, 10 miles north of St. George, and reach Zion over State Route No. 15. Motorists on United States Highway No. 89 should turn off on State Route No. 15 at Mount Carmel Junction, entering Zion by the east entrance.

United Air Lines serves Salt Lake City, and from there passengers may go by Union Pacific Railroad or bus to Cedar City. Air service is also available from Los Angeles by Western Air Lines, with stops at Las Vegas, Cedar City, and Salt Lake City.

Roads in the Park

There are 20 miles of improved roads in Zion National Park. One road leads from the park’s entrance to the Temple of Sinawava, a distance of 8 miles. No one has really seen Zion Canyon until he has made a trip over this road. Visitors in closed cars should make frequent stops so that they may get out and enjoy the magnificent view.

(Union Pacific Railroad photo) Overhanging trees frame the formation known as The First Patriarch.

November 1948 NP-Z10-7002 PORTION OF ZION NATIONAL PARK