IN THE HEART OF THE VOSGES

[Illustration]

AND OTHER SKETCHES BY A "DEVIOUS TRAVELLER"

BY

MISS BETHAM-EDWARDS

OFFICIER DE L'INSTRUCTION PUBLIQUE DE FRANCE

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY SPECIAL PERMISSION

1911

"I travel not to look for Gascons in Sicily. I have left them at home."—Montaigne.

PREFATORY NOTE

Some of these sketches now appear for the first time, others have been published serially, whilst certain portions, curtailed or enlarged respectively, are reprinted from a former work long since out of print. Yet again I might entitle this volume, "Scenes from Unfrequented France," many spots being here described by an English traveller for the first time.

My warmest thanks are due to M. Maurice Barrès for permission to reproduce two illustrations by M. Georges Conrad from his famous romance, Au Service de l'Allemagne; also to M. André Hallays for the use of two views from his À Travers l'Alsace; and to the publishers of both authors, MM. Fayard and Perrin, for their serviceableness in the matter.

Nor must I omit to acknowledge my indebtedness to Messrs. Sampson Low & Co., to whom I owe the reproduction of Gustave Doré's infantine tours de force; and to Messrs. Rivington, who have allowed large reprints from the work published by them over twenty years ago.

And last but not least, I thank the Rev. Albert Cadier, the son of my old friend, the much respected pastor of Osse, for the loan of his charming photographs.

CONTENTS

CHAP.

I GÉRARDMER AND ITS ENVIRONS II THE CHARM OF ALSACE III IN GUSTAVE DORÉ'S COUNTRY IV FROM BARR TO STRASBURG V THE "MARVELLOUS BOY" OF ALSACE VI QUISSAC AND SAUVE VII AN IMMORTALIZER VIII TOULOUSE IX MONTAUBAN, OR INGRES-VILLE X MY PYRENEAN VALLEY AT LAST XI AN OLIVE FARM IN THE VAR XII PESSICARZ AND THE SUICIDES' CEMETERY XIII GUEST OF FARMER AND MILLER XIV LADY MERCHANTS AND SOCIALIST MAYORS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

ST. ODILE

PROVINS, GENERAL VIEW

PROVINS, THE CAPITOL

PROVINS, THE CITY WALLS

GÉRARDMER

A VOSGIAN SCENE

CIRQUE DE RETOURNEMER

THE PINNACLE OF ODILE

ETTENHEIM

COLMAR

GUSTAVE DORÉ, INFANTINE SKETCH

GUSTAVE DORÉ, DO